Although it is quite a modern fad, surfing actually began many, many years ago – almost 4,000 years ago around 2000 BC to be exact!! Polynesians first began riding waves on wooden planks when fishermen discovered it was a fast and efficient way to get to shore with their catch. Eventually, catching waves this way became a fun pastime and not just part of the job. It is not known when "stand-up" surfing began, but by at least the 15th century, Hawaiian chiefs, queens, and other royalty enjoyed the sport of “he'enalu,” or sliding across waves. These Hawaiians developed their own prayers, board shaping, and surfing-related rituals, and lower-class Hawaiians were prohibited from sharing these rituals or the waves. Surfing disappeared entirely by the end of the 19th century as the number of Native Hawaiians declined. Its return is due to the “father of modern surfing”, Duke Kahanamoku. Duke Kahanamodu was a famous Olympic swimmer who founded a surf club on Wakiki Beach and then began exposing the sport to the West Coast in 1914. The Wakiki Surf Club became extremely popular and even legendary authors Jack London and Mark Twain wrote about it. The East Coast began surfing in 1912 after James Matthias Jordan, Jr surfed off Virginia Beach on a huge 110-pound Hawaiian Redwood. Then, in 1959, the movie Gidget brought surfing to international attention for the first time. Gidget was a movie about a girl with the same name who fell in love with surfing and a surfer boy. The country fell in love with her and sport. The Beach Boys' music cemented the country's love affair with surfing, and everyone went to the beach! Today, surfing is enjoyed by millions of people every year on beaches... middle of paper... beyond where the waves break, floating in the water near where the waves begin to break with your back to the beach . ii. Watch the waves to get an idea of ​​where the waves are breaking. Once you decide to catch a wave, face the tip of the board towards the shore and lie down. iii. When a wave approaches, the surfer must paddle hard to reach it. The surfer can feel that the wave has been caught when the surfboard accelerates to the same speed as the wave below. iv. Just before the wave begins to break, the surfer pushes down on the board as if doing a push-up, while at the same time lifting his legs under his body, planting his feet on the board, and standing up. This is the pop-up.v. Once standing, you should stand with your front hip facing forward and your feet perpendicular to the board. Keep your knees bent and your eyes facing forward